Some things to know
When you’re planning a climb at Mont Larose, be sure to check the latest conditions and terms of access, as rock climbing isn’t allowed at certain times of the year in order to protect the local peregrine falcons’ nesting patterns. Time of day and weather can also play a factor; the south-facing slope can become crazy hot in the summertime. You might want to wait till the autumn before tackling this massif – or you can come in the spring, but you’ll need to wear your bug spray.
Also make sure you have a FQME membership or daily pass to climb here; you won’t be allowed to without it.
Ready for Weir?
Weir, a 100m block of granite on Mont-Larose, is one of the most impressive and imposing massifs in the Laurentians. But before you begin, triple-check to make sure your checklist of mandatory safety equipment is all accounted for – especially your helmet, as well as chalk and tape for your hands.
Put yourself to the test
You can choose from about a dozen sport-climbing routes, 40 trad routes and 30 mixed routes. These climbs are hard and technical. Unlike other large cliffs in the area, the wall is mostly vertical to overhanging. Many of these routes were rated in the 70s and 80s, back in the days when a 5.10 was considered very difficult. Before committing to a route, make sure you can actually handle it.
You make the rules
If you’re really confident in your abilities, consider tackling Black and White (5.11a), a stunning but notorious three-pitch trad route that gradually grows more difficult as you get higher. Midway, you’ll see a large fissure that some climbers can fit right into. If you’re not ready for a climb of this calibre, you can head on over to the western wall to select a tamer route.